Tuesday, 17 January 2017

How to Tie The Multi Rig

This fantastic rig allows you to change your hook within seconds. The Multi Rig, also known as the Jon Mac Rig to many, is only suited to fishing pop-ups. It features a D on the shank of the hook of which your pop-up is attached to via dental floss. 


The multi rig is very aggressive and if you look at the shape of it in the water it actually hovers like a claw – thus making is extremely difficult to eject once sucked in. Not only is it practically tangle free and can sit over the choddiest of lake beds, the hook can also be changed in a split second by simply adjusting the D – this refers to the shape that is created next to the eye of the hook.

How to Tie The Multi Rig

Multi rig Multi rig
Create a large loop in the material by tying a figure-of-eight knot. The size of the loop will determine the height of the popup Moisten the knot and pull it down tightly using a Knot Pulla.
Multi rig Multi rig
Thread the hook onto the loop, like this. Now pop a rig ring or micro swivel onto the loop.
Multi rig Multi rig
Now take the loop over the hook point, like this. Pull the loop down to form a D for the bait to slide on.
Multi rig Multi rig
Make a 5mm break in the coating just below the loop knot Pop a split shot onto the link, just below the break.
Multi rig Multi rig
Mould some tungsten putty around the shot to allow you to critically balance the popup Now tie your Ring Swivel on using a grinner knot.
Multi rig Multi rig
Tie on your chosen popup using dental floss That's your multi rig tied.

Wednesday, 11 January 2017

Locating Carp using 5 Visual Features

You cannot possibly catch carp if there aren't any Carp around the swim! So, if you want to catch more carp on any water, then you must locate the carp before choosing a Swim.

 This is not an easy task, but there are basic things to look out for, signs of carp movement or carp feeding. Try to look for fish rolling or Watch for carp jumping out of the surface of the water, Look for large swirls or movements on the surface of the lake.

If you can't see any of these signs there are other ways of detecting possible hotspots. Just from looking at a lake's visible features you may be able to find possible holding areas or sections where carp patrol. The 5 most common areas where carp like to patrol are:

Islands

Islands are a common area where carp tend to patrol, because they offer some protection and cover - providing there are overhanging trees which protrude over the water.

The carp may feed freely around an island providing carp anglers do not target these areas too often as the pressure can force carp to seek other quiet areas.

Fishing an island on a new venue can be a safe bet, especially on a quiet day, plus an island can make a great marker for accurate casting without having to use a marker float which may spook the carp if used too much.

Weed Beds

carp love weed beds. It makes them feel safe and tends to contain lots of natural food. So if you are struggling to locate carp using sight alone then fishing close to a weed bed can produce plenty of carp.

The use of safe rigs is paramount at all times but, when fishing weedy areas, it is necessary to pay even more attention to this area. The likelihood of line breakage is higher owing to the abrasive qualities of weed and the damage it can cause your mainline.

The Chod rig is by far the best way of presenting a hookbait in weed. I have found it, not only the easiest, but also the most effective way of getting a bite in a weedy situation. There are many advantages of using it. I don't need to find a clean hole in the weed, I can get rigs in the water with minimal disturbance and I can cast to where the fish are rather than where there is a clearing.

Lily pads

Lily pads are similar to the weed beds in that they provide shelter and food for the carp, therefore they are a great place to put your hook bait, especially for floating bait in-between individual pads.

As lily pads are often situated near the bank you will need to be quiet.



Overhanging trees

Overhanging trees are one of the best places to head for when fishing on a new, unknown venue. They provide carp with plenty of security and shelter, and I have personally witnessed carp feeding very confidently. I have also seen some of the biggest carp caught from under a tree.

If possible, I sit well back from the water's edge. If the configuration of the bank makes that impossible, I like to sit behind cover. If no cover exists, I may create it, drab clothing helps. It is also necessary to sit very still.

Carp are wild creatures - they have an instinctive fear of alien shapes, shadows and noises. We intensify that fear by constantly pursuing and hassling them. We are not likely to catch them close-in, therefore, if they know we are there.

 

Snags

Carp will always visit snags in their various forms. They seem to love the feeling of security and treat such places as a retreat where they can hide away from pressure. I have observed many times, from overhanging vantage points, carp feed excitedly in amongst a tangle of roots or underwater obstructions.

There is one important piece of advice I want to give to anyone fishing near snags and for that matter weed - LOSE THE LEAD. Most problems occur when the lead is pulled through underwater obstacles such as branches, weed or lilies. If your lead is discharged from the rig, soon after a take, the hooked carp will usually rise to the surface and you will be in direct contact, so the odds of landing the fish will fad heavily in your favour.


How to Tie The IQ D Rig

The D Rig is a bit of an old-school presentation and not as widely used today. However, in the right circumstances it can be deadly. Concocted using fluorocarbon, the rig is practically invisible in the water making it ideal for targeting gin-clear waters that require finesse and subtlety to outwit their residents.


Fluorocarbon is relatively stiff, so the rig will rarely tangle on the cast, eradicating the need for PVA foam or bags that severely decrease the distance and accuracy. Take your pick as to whether you wish to use the stiffer IQ or the suppler IQ2 fluorocarbon.

The D Rig is based on the way that the hook bait is mounted on the D shape constructed by the hook's eye. You form this by whipping a knotless knot followed by blobbing the tag end with a naked flame. This prevents it pulling through. You then tie your pop-up to the small micro ring that runs along this.

To anchor the pop-up to the lake bed, simply squeeze on the correct split shot. You want to weight it down just enough so that the bait slowly sinks through the water column over the weight of the split shot. This will give it enough buoyancy to shoot back into the carp's mouth once sucked in.

How to Tie The D Rig

Remove some of the IQ2 Fluorocarbon. Around 14 inches is suffice. Hold the hook between your fingers and pinch a large loop of IQ against the shank, like this.
IQ D Rig IQ D Rig
Take the upper part of the loop and wrap it once around the shank, up towards the bend. Now wrap around the hook again, but back down towards the eye this time, crossing over the first wrap.
IQ D Rig IQ D Rig
Position the barrel opposite the barb of the hook. Pull both ends tight to tighten the barrel of the knot. Snip off the tag that projects down towards the eye. The rig should now look like this.
IQ D Rig IQ D Rig
Slide a Micro Rig Swivel down the IQ. Now tie a six turn knotless knot with the long tag, securing the hook like you would normally.
IQ D Rig IQ D Rig
Now set the rig at around nine inches and tie a Link Loop to the other end, using a half-blood knot. Pull a wafter hook bait onto a doubled piece of bait floss and tie the tags around a boilie stop to secure the bait.
IQ D Rig IQ D Rig
Trim the tags and blob with a lighter. The rig is now ready to use!

Tuesday, 10 January 2017

Carp Fishing Rigs - The Ronnie Rig

This Rig is very special, and it's a rig that's been used successfully on the quiet (TOP SECRET) for a few years now, successfully being deployed as a tool pivotal in catching some phenomenally big fish from a number of waters. But now the word is out…

The Ronnie Rig offers the benefits of a super consistent low pop up presentation, fished the height of a hook and the swivel, but without the issues of a naked hook eye that has the potential for snaring landing net meshes and the problems that potentially occur to the 360 style rig.

It offers all the advantages of the rig mechanics of the Hinged Stiff Rig, but without the issues related to trying to fish them low (which isn't the optimum arrangement).

How to Tie The Ronnie Rig

Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
Start by cutting a 1cm length of Large Covert Shrink Tube. Position the shrink tube onto the hook shank before mounting the size 12 Kwik Lok Flexi-Ring Swivel onto the hook eye.
Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
Pull the hook eye onto the Kwik Lok crook. As you pull the hook onto swivel the Kwik Lok crook will distort slightly.
Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
When pulled in fully just squeeze the crook closed with some pliers. Now position the Shrink Tube as shown, ready to shrink.
Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
Shrink over a kettle of boiling water (be careful not to burn yourself). Now you can slide a size 20 Swivel onto the hook (if you're using corkballed pop ups substitute a Rig Ring).
Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
Push a Hook Stop onto the hook Position the Hook Stop opposite the point as shown. An easy way of attaching the hookbait is to pull through a piece of dental floss and blob it with a lighter
Ronnie Rig Ronnie Rig
Mould some Critical Mass Putty round the Shrink tubing so the pop up sinks slowly when tested. Tie your chosen hooklink material to the Flexi Ring and attach the finished rig onto your preferred lead arrangement.

Sunday, 8 January 2017

A few tips for getting the best results from your PVA

If you look in the tackle box of any angler in any country where carp fishing is popular, one item you will always find in one form or another will be P.V.A., or Poly Vinyl Alcohol, to give it its full name.. 


In the early 1980's Gardner launched the first PVA product specifically for use in carp fishing. The original PVA String was made by a machine 'weaving' together several narrow strands of PVA tape. This makes the PVA easier to thread boilies onto and then attach to your rig. The original PVA String is strong enough to withstand even long distance casting thus enabling you to fish 'free' offerings, the same as your hookbait, at any range. The beauty of PVA is its strength when dry and its ability to completely dissolve when immersed in water, without affecting or harming its immediate environment in any way (including the fish!).

Top Tips

  1. ALWAYS store PVA products in a dry environment. It sounds crazy to remind people of this, but you will be surprised how easy water (and water vapour) can get around the place! Good quality PVA is not cheap to buy but very easy to waste…
  2. how to store PVA  
  3. Try storing your PVA in a bucket of dry pellet. Not only will that keep the PVA dry, but it will also take on a bit of the smell and oily texture of the pellet…lovely! Take care with oily pellet though as this can slow down the melt rate in cold conditions.
  4. Non-water-based liquids, such as some amino attractors and flavours, can be added to PVA Bag contents to enhance attraction without melting the PVA.
  5. Practice making PVA Bags tight and neat; they will fly more smoothly on the cast and sink more quickly – vital when you need the bait to hit the spot fast.
  6. Solid PVA bags
  7. When using Solid PVA Bags, don't forget to make a few small puncture marks in them before casting to help them sink quickly. Bags with no holes will float and drift until they start to melt.
  8. As you move towards the colder, winter period, scale down the size of the PVA Bags and decrease the number of free baits on your stringers. Carp are much less active in these conditions and will be put off feeding by larger quantities of bait.
  9. When making stringers, space the boilies apart to allow water in between to aid fast melting and separation of free offerings.
  10. use the best quality PVA you can find. Inferior PVA does not dissolve quickly and will leave a nasty blob right where your hook is, and no fish likes the flavour of Poly Vinyl Alcohol, believe me! Residue from poor quality PVA not melting, or only partially melting, will prevent you getting bites…no one needs a day like that. It's worth hunting around for the finest, even if it costs more – better that than blanking!
PVA is a top method that has revolutionised modern day carp fishing. There are many ways to use it, and you can experiment with what works for your fishing, but when you master the art, you won't look back. All of the UK and Europe's top specimen hunters are looking for the edge that PVA can give, and none of them leave home without it.

Saturday, 7 January 2017

Particle Baits

The use of particle baits in carp fishing have become extremely popular due to their versatility and effectiveness. The majority of particle baits are hard nuts or seeds and as such they need to be prepared correctly. Under-prepared particles can be fatal to fish stocks; dry particles absorb water and then swell in size which can lead to fish deaths if this happens inside the fish's gut. That said, don't let this put you off using particles because if they are prepared correctly then they can be devastating


The preparation phase is crucial with particles, the reason why particles are so effective is that during the preparation stage (which usually requires some degree of pre-soaking and boiling) the oils and attractors from within the particle are released. This can transform a bland and boring seed or nut into a rich mix of flavours and attractors.

Ever since particles have been used in fishing, anglers have put their own 'twist' on how they prepare particles ranging from adding a teaspoon of salt or sugar to adding chilli or garlic to the cooking water. By adding these extra ingredients at the preparation stage means that the particles will absorb and take on these flavours and can give you that all important 'edge' over other anglers.

  Many anglers tend to fish with an assortment of particles rather than just one type. This provides the fish with a variety of food sources of different sizes, textures, flavours and colours and will increase the fish's confidence in feeding over a bed of particles.

I personally buy my dry particles in bulk and prepare them myself. Buying them in bulk from a pet store rather from a tackle shop can be considerably cheaper.  My favourite particle mix is a  pigeon mix called "Irish".


This mix contains a good selection of large seeds such as maize, maples as well as some smaller ones.
I also buy my Hemp seed in bulk from the same supplier.

Even though I soak both of these for 24 hours prior to boiling them, they are soaked separately as this is were I like to add my own flavours and seasoning and if you add certain seasonings to hemp such as salt and some spices prior to boiling it can stop the hemp from splitting and you want the hemp to split.

What you add to the rest of your mix is entirely up to you, I tend to add similar attractors to the boilies I'm using. If I using Krill boilies I will add some Krill oil to the mix. you are only limited to your own imagination.

particles soaking

Once the mix has been soaked I boil the particle mix for about 30 min until the maize and the maples just start to soften and not to soft that they go to mush I want them to retain there shape and give the Carp something to crunch.

The Hemp is boiled until it starts to split this can vary but it usually starts to split after about 35 - 40 min.

Once the mix is ready I like to add some chopped and whole boilies to the mix and I do this the night before I go fishing this allows the boilies to soak up all the oils and juice's from the mix.



Fishing Photography - The Trophy shot - 5 things to avoid

We look at 5 key things to avoid or remember when taking photos of carp, whether snapping your mates first 40 or your kid's first double the following will help to ensure the perfect Trophy Shot.

 

Bad Composition.

missing anglers head
Missing Angler's Head & Carp's Tail
There's a number of sides to this. To state the obvious trophy shots are about the angler and the fish so as a general rule these should dominate the composition, i.e. be in the center and fill the frame. Now although it's always worth snapping a few different shots, the other people present, the fish being returned etc. but the shot the guy usually wants on his wall is the standard one seen in all the mags and consequently is the most important to get right.

When taking the picture for a trophy shot it's very important that the frame is filled as much as possible. For instance, I always aim to have the fish's lips and tail just millimetres from the left and right hand edge of the frame as you look through the view finder. I insist that the fish is slightly pushed out by the captor; this gives a better aspect to the trophy.

I always like to see the back on the fish somewhere around the top of the captor's chest. The photographer's position height in relation to the height that the fish is being held is very important. Once in the right position you will see that the elbows of the captor disappear.

The most common mistake on trophy shots is to stand too far back and have the angler and the fish too small in the center. By the same token avoid getting too close and chopping heads and tails off. You want the entire anglers head and fish in the frame.

 

Bad Background.

Background taking up most of the photo
Background taking up most of the photo
For most purposes a blank canvas of greenery a couple of metres behind the angler gives most prominence to the subject. Complicated backgrounds generally take something away from the composition and the things to definitely avoid are bivvys in the background, other people, cars etc.

This is one area where there are some notable exceptions. Flowered bushes or grasses can add some colour and look stunning without distracting from the angler.

The sides of the swim are pretty much always the banker shots. The camera has a solid forward object to focus on and a rear focal point in the form of reeds or foliage, although these often soften out slightly (go out of focus). Remember always to have the sun coming over your shoulder whenever possible.

 

A black silhouette/Underexposed shots

 underexposing the focal point of the shot
underexposing the focal point of the shot
Especially common with the returner photo this shot occurs when a bright background fools the camera into underexposing the focal point of the shot, i.e. the angler and fish. Depending on the camera there are a number of ways to avoid this.

Say you want to take a picture of a Carp being returned. There is water in the lower half or so of the picture, and sky in the upper half or so, with the Carp in the middle. If the Carp is slightly above the middle, the camera tries to adjust to the dark water and everything looks very bright. If you put the Carp below the middle of the picture, the camera tries to adjust to the bright sky and everything gets darker. So the trick is to move the middle of the picture (usually indicated by a square, some "crosshairs", a small circle, [brackets], or something) slightly above the horizon, and slightly below the horizon, until you get just the right brightness. You then half-press the button to "lock" those exposure settings, and don't let your finger off. Finally, compose the picture the way you want and press the button the rest of the way down.

 

Giant Fish Syndrome

Carp looks proportionately bigger
Carp looks proportionately bigger
Wide angle lenses, such as the 35mm lens on a standard compact, exaggerate distances. This means that objects nearer the lens look proportionately bigger then further items. Getting in really close to the fish with a wide angle lens will make the fish look proportionately bigger.

A 50mm lens is close to the natural eye view so gives a realistic fish size and is a popular focal length for people who take their fish shots seriously.

If the Captor pushes the carp out from their body this gives a better aspect to the trophy but it will also make the fish look bigger.

 

Camera Shake

Blured phot due to Camra Shake
Blured phot due to Camra Shake
The really important bit, of course, is taking the shot. In an ideal world, you would always lock off your shot (use a tripod) but in reality that's never going to happen. You've got two living, breathing creatures going through a complex process in which one is held aloft, while the other battles to stay as still as possible. With the best will in the world the fish will still be battling and the captor struggling to hold it steady.

When taking a picture its absolutely essential that you hold the camera properly. With a heavier slr type camera a good position is down on one knee with your left hand under the lens and elbow propped on the other knee. Sort of a human tripod. Another trick is, just prior to taking the shot take a couple of short breath, then hold you breath and gently squeeze the button rather then push it. Often people push the button quite hard and jog the camera in the process!!!

And finally - There are so many variables when taking the trophy shot but one thing's for sure. If you have given it thought and consideration beforehand you will deal with the situation in a much calmer, rational, organised manner, and that can only improve the results