Fishing Photography - The Trophy shot - 5 things to avoid

We look at 5 key things to avoid or remember when taking photos of carp, whether snapping your mates first 40 or your kid's first double the following will help to ensure the perfect Trophy Shot.

 

Bad Composition.

Missing Angler's Head & Carp's Tail

There's a number of sides to this. To state the obvious trophy shots are about the angler and the fish so as a general rule these should dominate the composition, i.e. be in the center and fill the frame. Now although it's always worth snapping a few different shots, the other people present, the fish being returned etc. but the shot the guy usually wants on his wall is the standard one seen in all the mags and consequently is the most important to get right.

When taking the picture for a trophy shot it's very important that the frame is filled as much as possible. For instance, I always aim to have the fish's lips and tail just millimetres from the left and right hand edge of the frame as you look through the view finder. I insist that the fish is slightly pushed out by the captor; this gives a better aspect to the trophy.

I always like to see the back on the fish somewhere around the top of the captor's chest. The photographer's position height in relation to the height that the fish is being held is very important. Once in the right position you will see that the elbows of the captor disappear.

The most common mistake on trophy shots is to stand too far back and have the angler and the fish too small in the center. By the same token avoid getting too close and chopping heads and tails off. You want the entire anglers head and fish in the frame.

 

Bad Background.

Background taking up most of the photo

For most purposes a blank canvas of greenery a couple of metres behind the angler gives most prominence to the subject. Complicated backgrounds generally take something away from the composition and the things to definitely avoid are bivvys in the background, other people, cars etc.

This is one area where there are some notable exceptions. Flowered bushes or grasses can add some colour and look stunning without distracting from the angler.

The sides of the swim are pretty much always the banker shots. The camera has a solid forward object to focus on and a rear focal point in the form of reeds or foliage, although these often soften out slightly (go out of focus). Remember always to have the sun coming over your shoulder whenever possible.

 

A black silhouette/Underexposed shots

underexposing the focal point of the shot

Especially common with the returner photo this shot occurs when a bright background fools the camera into underexposing the focal point of the shot, i.e. the angler and fish. Depending on the camera there are a number of ways to avoid this.

Say you want to take a picture of a Carp being returned. There is water in the lower half or so of the picture, and sky in the upper half or so, with the Carp in the middle. If the Carp is slightly above the middle, the camera tries to adjust to the dark water and everything looks very bright. If you put the Carp below the middle of the picture, the camera tries to adjust to the bright sky and everything gets darker. So the trick is to move the middle of the picture (usually indicated by a square, some "crosshairs", a small circle, [brackets], or something) slightly above the horizon, and slightly below the horizon, until you get just the right brightness. You then half-press the button to "lock" those exposure settings, and don't let your finger off. Finally, compose the picture the way you want and press the button the rest of the way down.

 

Giant Fish Syndrome

Carp looks proportionately bigger

Wide angle lenses, such as the 35mm lens on a standard compact, exaggerate distances. This means that objects nearer the lens look proportionately bigger then further items. Getting in really close to the fish with a wide angle lens will make the fish look proportionately bigger.

A 50mm lens is close to the natural eye view so gives a realistic fish size and is a popular focal length for people who take their fish shots seriously.

If the Captor pushes the carp out from their body this gives a better aspect to the trophy but it will also make the fish look bigger.

 

Camera Shake

Blured phot due to Camra Shake

The really important bit, of course, is taking the shot. In an ideal world, you would always lock off your shot (use a tripod) but in reality that's never going to happen. You've got two living, breathing creatures going through a complex process in which one is held aloft, while the other battles to stay as still as possible. With the best will in the world the fish will still be battling and the captor struggling to hold it steady.

When taking a picture its absolutely essential that you hold the camera properly. With a heavier slr type camera a good position is down on one knee with your left hand under the lens and elbow propped on the other knee. Sort of a human tripod. Another trick is, just prior to taking the shot take a couple of short breath, then hold you breath and gently squeeze the button rather then push it. Often people push the button quite hard and jog the camera in the process!!!

And finally - There are so many variables when taking the trophy shot but one thing's for sure. If you have given it thought and consideration beforehand you will deal with the situation in a much calmer, rational, organised manner, and that can only improve the results